June 6 — Last day on Fernando Island. We were hoping to repeat the cliff jump that Cracker did yesterday but we weren’t allowed in the park. The fees would have been $70 each so, for a few hours, we opted not to. We finished our pre-sailing preps, had lunch, threw around the Frisbee and snorkeled around the boat and in the bay. Not a bad day at all!
It’s with some regret that we’re leaving paradise but hey! Adventure awaits! A 15-day sail over the equator to Antigua!
June 5 — Here is the video of Cracker’s “death plunge in paradise” yesterday, narrated by Petro Noronha, a descendant of the island’s namesake Fernando de Noronha. We met Petro and his girlfriend Tess at his dad’s restaurant, The Flamboyant.
They took Cracker around to the secret beaches where he scored some great shots for our blog.
In preparation for the next leg of our trip, today we stocked up on supplies, including gas and diesel. Things even got a little silly.
I’m sure many of you have been waiting for a tour of the Nomadic Rose. Well, here it is finally. I took this video on our second day at sea. Hope you like it.
June 4 — This is a paradise island! They only allow 400 people per day onto the island. There are gorgeous tranquil beaches bordered by spectacular cliffs on the leeward side of the island and majestic, turbulent beaches and rocky stalwarts on the windward side. Great mix. But the best part for me is that Fernando is a designated marine sanctuary and Brazilians are really conscientious of the environment, at least here they are.
Fernando is a vacation spot for well-heeled Brazilians who like to wear as little as possible. It’s pretty warm here, so that’s completely understandable. Many drive around in four-person buggies you can rent. The standard seating arrangement is two guys up front and the ladies sit with their butts on the trunk, their feet on the back seat so they’re perched up above the roll bar … like they’re in a parade, tanned and smiling their faces off. It just nails the cliché completely. Glamour shots are taken by each of them all over the place because of the incredible beauty of the natural surroundings and untouched vistas.
It’s pretty expensive by most standards and I think that this intentionally limits the tourist impact. By Canadian metrics, I think it would be termed average cost wise.
Fernando was well worth the wait. When we approached our anchorage in the port bay, we were greeted by about a hundred spinner dolphins jumping and playing all about the bay! These dolphins were regular neighbors throughout our stay as well as turtles, rays and tons of fish.
Axel and Cracker went diving and loved the wildlife their guides showed them. Reef sharks, barracudas, dolphins, ray. Crazy abundance!
Two-third of the island is protected park and it’s a minimum $75 for a 4-day visitor permit. We declined this expense so we just looked in from a distance, our faces pressed to the storefront glass!
There are well used garbage and recycling receptacles everywhere. Fernando is a zero plastics sanctuary. There are no plastic bags available in any stores (limited paper too), no plastic straws and next month there will be a ban on plastic bottles too.
All of the public beaches and lookouts were really clean and spectacular as well. Brazilians are amazingly civilized and reasonable; unlike Canada. You can visit the local sunset lookout, buy a beer and gaze off a cliff at the setting sun’s colour show with no fences nor warning signs or liability disclaimers. Just a bottle recycling bin. Aww yes! This is how it should be.
June 3 — A family of manta rays I encountered while snorkeling this morning. Flying in formation!
Each anchorage, we have to dive down and make sure it’s set. Our Captain likes the photographic proof.
June 2 — Arrived on Fernando Island at around 7:00 am this morning.
We had lunch then hopped in a taxi for a quick tour of the island. Here are a few pics.
